Directing the final scene of the film out at Snow's Bend. 

The film has received great support from the Independent Television Service (ITVS), Alabama Public Television, the Alabama State Council on the Arts and the Alabama Humanities Foundation, among others. We look forward to sharing it all with you in the New Year!

Even though the blueberry and peach seasons have long passed, it still feels as if summer has its hold on us. The soil is parched, and the air is just as hot and thick as it was in July. Our only offering of fall is the changing of the guard - apples, pears, and muscadines have replaced the summer fruits, and our CSA bags are beginning to house bunches of greens and winter gourds.

In August we spent some time preparing for this transition, picking and freezing blueberries for the coming months. Out at our friends Jean and Carol's farm in Coker, the blueberries held out an extra couple of weeks, giving us procrastinators a chance to build our stores. The blueberries have found their way into smoothies and desserts, even as the season begins to shift, and though my palate welcomes the fall repertoire, it will always make room for this tart and tangy little fruit.

Recently, our frozen blueberries along with the season's last peaches, found their way into this delectable end of the summer crumble.

Peach-Blueberry Crumble (from Ina Garten's Barefoot Contessa at Home)

For the fruit:
6-8 ripe peaches, sliced
2 tsp grated lemon zest
2 T freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/2 c granulated sugar
1/4 c all purpose flour
1 c blueberries (I used more than 1 cup)

For the crumble:
1 c all purpose flour
1/2 c granulated sugar
1/4 c light brown sugar
1/2 tsp kosher salt
1/4 tsp ground cinnamon
1/4 lb cold, unsalted butter (1 stick)

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Slice peaches into thick wedges (you may choose to peel the peaches first. If so, immerse them in boiling water for 1 minute, then put them in cold water) and put them in a bowl. Add lemon zest, lemon juice, sugar and flour. Toss well. Mix in blueberries. Allow the mixture to sit for 5 minutes. Place in baking dish or divide among small ramekins.

For the crumble, combine flour, sugars, salt, cinnamon and butter in a food processor. Pulse until the butter is the size of peas. Rub the mixture with your fingers until big crumbles form. Sprinkle crumble mixture over fruit. Bake for 40-45 minutes until crisp and browned and the juices are bubbly. Serves 5-6.

This year I grew my first Charentais cantaloupes. This heirloom variety hails from the Poitous-Charentes region of western France, and though diminutive boasts a superior flavor distinct from the hybrid, netted-skin varieties we are often used to. Its gray green skin hosts dark green sutures that sit slightly lower than the rest of the cantaloupe body, dividing the melon into a series of ten or so elevated segments. As the fruit matures and collects sugars within its flesh, the rind slowly loses its color, and reaches peak ripeness when the skin becomes a dull yellow. A sweet aroma, for which the melon is prized, is also an indicator that it is ready for picking.

Although wonderful eaten alone, in its homeland, the Charanteis is often enjoyed cut into wedges and wrapped in thin slices of prosciutto. The melding of sweet and salty will tease your palate, but in the end is oddly satisfying. Sadly, there is no Alabama prosciutto yet, so you'll have to settle for the Italian import (decadent I know!). And if this French snack doesn't entice you, then how about trying the Charanteis with a little port wine? Just halve, scoop out the seeds, and fill the center cavity with port, and the melon becomes a vessel for a tasty appertif or is transformed into a simple dessert. Still not convinced? Try this recipe for melon sorbet from Saveur.

We've been receiving quite a few of these Zephyr squash in our CSA as of late. Their two-toned skin is striking, and it's amazing to me how perfect the transition really is - a seamless jump from green into yellow, as if the plant simply ran out of one color and picked up another. The internal palette of vegetables is remarkable, and I often wonder if Nature's attention to color is more than just a ploy to ensure the proper dose of vitamins and minerals. I think she rather likes experimenting with hues, and like any other proper interior decorator, knows that color is key! Vibrantly colored fruits and vegetables can really dress up your secondary living space - just look and see how those Zephyrs bring out the color of the grass! And since I tend to spend a lot of time outdoors these days, I appreciate how these little gems of color have enlivened my landscape.

Coincidentally, even when their tenure outside has come to an end, I can still enjoy their colors on my dinner plate. Paired with other vegetables that share it's color - yellow pear tomatoes and a golden zucchini - the Zephyr squash is transformed into this beautiful and sumptuous pasta dish.

Green and Gold Squash and Zucchini Pasta (modified from Local Flavors by Deborah Madison)

1 cup goat cheese, more or less to taste (or ricotta)
2 lbs golden zucchini and zephyr squash, cut into small strips or wedges
2-3 T olive oil
3 cloves minced garlic
3 T coarsely torn basil
1 lb penne or rigatoni pasta
handful or more of yellow pear tomatoes (or other type cherry tomato)
salt and pepper to taste
freshly grated Parmesan or Pecorino

Warm the goat cheese to room temperature. Set large saute pan over medium-high heat. When pan is hot, add olive oil. Saute zucchini and squash until golden - about 5-10 minutes. You want the squash to be al dente - not mushy. Increase the heat to high if necessary, to keep the squash from steaming. When squash is done, add garlic and basil and toss to combine. Remove from heat. Season with salt and pepper.

Cook pasta according to package directions. When al dente, drain, and combine with squash mixture. Toss to coat and add a little more olive oil if desired. Drop spoonfuls of goat cheese over surface pasta - you may also choose to mix it in (we did this). Add freshly Parmesan or Pecorino to taste. Top with halved yellow pear tomatoes.

It happens all at once. The figs stay green forever it seems - taunting the birds and those of us who have been waiting somewhat impatiently to partake in the season's first crop - until finally, one day their skins soften and bear the color of purple. Suddenly, you find yourself underneath the tree, looking under foliage, and spotting ripe ones here, there, and everywhere. And if you wait too long to notice their metamorphosis (or go to the shed to get the ladder), they'll be gone - stolen away in the beak of some bird, or worse shriveled and unfit to eat.

Yesterday, we picked figs. Lots and lots of ripe, beautiful, plump figs. And since they only keep for about a day, I sent Andy straight to the kitchen to whip something up. My trees are getting so big now that it's gotten a little easier to cook something with a day's harvest. In the past, we'd pick a few figs here and there, and eat them plain or with goat cheese and a little drizzle of honey. Last year, I made a couple of loaves of fig bread. I anticipate many more fig-based desserts in the weeks to come, and if anything a welcome reprieve from all those peaches! (see yesterday's post).

Fig Skillet Cake (modified from Martha Stewart Living)

4 T unsalted butter, room temperature, plus more for skillet
1 cup all purpose flour, plus more for skillet
1/2 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp baking soda
coarse salt
3/4 cup plus 2 T sugar
1 large egg
1/2 cup milk (or buttermilk)
about 2 cups figs, thinly sliced

Preheat oven to 375. Butter an 8 inch ovenproof skillet (preferably cast-iron); dust with flour. Whisk together flour, baking powder and soda, and 1/2 tsp salt. Beat butter and 3/4 cup sugar with a mixer on medium speed until pale and fluffy. Beat in egg. Add flour mixture in 3 additions, alternating with milk.

It's the peak of summertime here in Alabama, so as you might imagine our meals have been filled with lots of prized summer vegetables like tomatoes, squash, zucchini, cucumbers, okra, and eggplant. We've taken to eating big tomato sandwiches for lunch, with handfuls of fresh basil and a slice of whatever cheese we have on hand. I've eaten so many peaches I'm starting to feel like Winfield in the Grapes of Wrath. But occasionally this summer, in the midst of all those tomatoes, we've been surprised to see a beet or two in our CSA share or at the farmer's market. Beets in July? I always thought that beets were strictly a fall and spring crop, but turns out they're in seasonal limbo, and are happy to steal some of the limelight away from all those traditional summer favorites. Though there are many ways to prepare beets, we found that for a summer dish, they are great raw, thinly sliced, with a little dressing - very refreshing, and more importantly, you don't have to turn the oven on to roast them! They also pair wonderfully with citrus and goat cheese. We prepared the following simple beet salad using the last of the season's escarole back in June. 

Raw Beet Salad with Fresh Dill and Mustard Vinaigrette (modified from Farmer John's Cookbook)

4 medium beets, peeled, cut into strips
1/2 cup olive oil
3 T white wine vinegar
1 T finely chopped shallot
1 tsp Dijon mustard
1 small clove garlic, minced or pressed
1-2 T fresh dill, finely chopped
salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 bunch escarole (lettuce or arugula)

Combine olive oil, vinegar, shallot, mustard, and garlic in a large jar. With the lid tightly screwed on, shake the jar vigorously until the oil and vinegar are thickened. Pour the dressing over the cut beets and toss until well coated. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer the beet mixture to the refrigerator to marinate for at least 1 hour. Add the fresh dill and toss again. Serve over a bed of escarole.

Yesterday, we received some golden beets in our CSA share, so we'll be thinking of ways to prepare these! (right now I have my eye on this recipe).

For those of you wanting another Alabama Supper, have we got a treat for you! Saturday, June 26th, the Alabama Sustainable Agriculture Network is holding a fundraiser in Thomaston featuring a SEVEN COURSE all-Alabama meal. ASAN, the state's only non-profit devoted to promoting sustainable food and farming, has put together an event and a menu that is not to be missed. The usual suspects from previous Alabama Suppers will be on hand - Good People Brewing, a bevy of local farmers and producers, the four of us here at Eating Alabama, etc. - along with some new additions, like the good folks at PieLab in Greensboro who will be providing all locally sourced pie! While the dinner itself should be enough to convince you to make the trip (menu below), the location is the icing on the cake. The Rural Heritage Center at Thomaston, remodeled by Auburn's Rural Studio, will be our dining room for the evening. Come celebrate the rich heritage of the Black Belt while supporting the good and vital work of ASAN. Come early and take a self-guided tour of other nearby Rural Studio projects. You'll be glad you did. Meet your farmers, meet the people of ASAN, and support the important mission of creating more sustainable farmers throughout Alabama.

The meal itself is quite a treat, too: Adam Weinstein, chef from previous Alabama Suppers and the proprietor of Might Could Catering, has put together this amazing menu:

THE MENU
Appetizers of grilled shrimp with cherry tomato confit; polenta cakes with roasted pepper aioli and lardoons.

 

Seven course menu featuring three sliders (vegetarian option of three separate veggie burger sliders are available; please request vegetarian when ordering tickets)

1) watermelon salad with muscadine wine reduction, black salt and basil

2) lamb burger with roasted eggplant, charred onion, lemon and mint, served with a side of herbed yogurt

3) tomato salad with fried leeks and bacon vinaigrette

4) beef burger with tomato relish, pickles, cheddar, and kettle cooked chips on the side

5) lemon basil ice

6) pork shoulder burger with bourbon glazed peaches and roasted fennel, with spicy slaw on the side

Dessert: a variety of locally-sourced pies artfully created by PieLab!

Thanks to the generous support from Snow's Bend, Boutwell Farms, McEwen and Sons, Wright Dairy, Red Root Farm, and a variety of suppliers in the Black Belt, who are providing the food and making this event happen. Stay tuned for details, and please note that tickets are VERY LIMITED. The venue only holds 80 people. Please don't miss this special event, and know that every penny raised during this benefit goes directly to supporting ASAN and its mission of promoting and supporting sustainable agriculture throughout the state.

UPDATE: Unfortunately, the Supper has been postponed due to unforeseen circumstances. We'll keep you posted when it's rescheduled.
 

My evening visits to the garden almost always include a stop in the pea patch. I like to check their progress and make sure that their numbers are up - we've had a few casualties as of late, both to tenacious birds and tenacious weeders (yes, it's hard to weed around pea vines without an occasional uprooting). It's amazing to see how much taller they've grown, and how they've managed to stay upright even when they've surpassed the height of your makeshift trellis, grabbing hold of and wrapping their delicate tendrils around each other. And as I look up and down the vines in search of the mature pods, I see just how many little peas are in the making, their green tips emerging from a spent bloom.

Sugar snap peas are quickly becoming my new favorite snack. Plump and verdant, the peas are just too tempting to resist. Even if I come prepared to harvest, I inevitably end up eating more than I save, each pea bypassing my bowl and going straight to my mouth. Their sweet crunch and refreshing burst of flavor make them the perfect snack for a hot Alabama day.

Even though I'm happy to eat them straight off the vine and raw most days, sugar snap peas also work well in a number of dishes. Try them in stir fries and pastas, or paired with meats. They are also just as good by themselves, sauteed in a little butter and mixed with fresh herbs.

Sugar Snap Peas with Oregano (From Martha Stewart Living)

1 lb sugar snap peas (strings removed)
coarse salt
1/2 T butter
1 T fresh oregano, coarsely chopped

Combine snap peas and 1 cup water in a large skillet; season with salt. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then cook until all the water has evaporated (~3-4 minutes). Add butter and continue to cook, stirring frequently, until snap peas are crisp-tender (~2 minutes). Remove from heat and add oregano.

My study of the book is far from complete, but I've worked my way through the first chapter on bed preparation, where the method of the elusive "double-dig" was finally revealed to me. Although I had often heard the term "double-dig" in conversation amongst my gardening/farming circle, I'd never found occasion to inquire further to its meaning. It seemed intuitive enough, a simple case of dig and dig-again. But, whatever connotation the term had in my mind, it wasn't until reading an entire chapter on the practice, complete with a step-by-step chronology and detailed diagrams, that I fully realized the extent and intensity of the method. This guy was serious about soil health.

And so, following his advice, I decided to take an entire day and double-dig one of my back beds. The idea is to loosen and aerate your soil by digging to a depth of 24 inches (2 spades deep) (It's much deeper than you think, so get ready to burn some calories with that shovel!). The gardener tackles her plot by digging a series of trenches, each time pushing the first foot of soil into the previously dug trench, and then further loosening the second foot of soil with a spading fork. An initial layer of compost is worked onto the bed before the double digging ensues, which then gets mixed into the first foot of the soil during digging. Compaction of soil is minimized during trenching by the using of a "digging board" (see photo). If you've done it right, in the end you've given your soil a much needed boost of air space and also improved soil texture by encouraging the formation of soil aggregates. Your plant's roots will thank you for all of the extra breathing room!

Even if it's one of the most physically exhaustive things you'll do in the garden, double digging is well worth it. After you prepare a bed this way, you can immediately see the difference. The soil looks and feels much different. My newly prepared bed is now host to an assortment of melons. So far, they have no complaints!

Below is a portion of the double-digging diagram from Jeavon's book:

2. Green Giant. Tomatoes in the winter? You betcha. This really isn't an article about local foods, but it's good reading material, and an insight into the hothouse tomato game. Someone's gotta grow all those tomatoes consumers are eating out of season. At Backyard Farms in Madison, Maine, a whopping 42 acres (or for you football fans, that's 32 football fields worth) of tomatoes are grown under the glass of two super large greenhouses. These well-maintained tomato vines are grown sans dirt in a hydroponic mixture, without pesticides - the company often introducing beneficial insects into the greenhouses to control pests- and are pollinated by bees the good-old fashioned way. In contrast to most commercially grown tomatoes that are picked green and allowed to ripen during transit, the Backyard tomatoes are only harvested when ripe (hey, there's a concept!). Oh, and you probably guessed that these suckers take a lot of electricity to produce - in fact, when the greenhouse lights are in use, they consume in 32 minutes the same amount of electricity the average American household consumes in a year!

I'm staying local on this one. If you want to eat tomatoes in January, think ahead this summer and do a little home canning.

3. Hoop Dreams. Snowmaggedon was no match for the White House garden this winter. While the rest of the city fell prey to Jack Frost's wintry wiles, an army of hoophouses dutifully protected and shielded the garden's bounty. Check out this video from The White House - it has some really great time-lapsed footage of snow falling in the garden.

And speaking of hoops, back in December the USDA announced a new pilot project to study hoop houses as a season extension - part of their "Know Your Farmer, Know Your Food" initiative.

*Top two photos are from the New York Times